Taj and Raj

To Agra, the home of the magnificent Taj Mahal, tomb of Mumtaz Mahal - no not the celebrated Irish five furlong speedster and record holder of the 1930s owned by the late Aga Khan - but Emperor Shah Jahan's second wife and beloved mother of 14. He was later buried along side her in 1666. The exquisite mausoleum took 22 years to build (20,000 workmen) costing the equivalent of 100 million pounds. The marble inlay work is astonishing in its detail and magnificence. We got our first glimpse watching it from the other side of the Yamuna river as the colour changed dramatically from white to pink.

The following morning we arose at 6am to get our dawn view of this ninth wonder of the world. Our driver Bobby (with us for 21 days in Rajasthan) went mysteriously missing and left us to the devices of a tour guide. He was knowledgeable but not necessary and cost less than he had hoped for as a result. He also dragged us to marble inlay craftsmen and jewellers - "It costs nothing to look" he claimed. This time it didn't.

India is a place of enormous contrasts. Close by the majesty of the Taj Mahal you will see lame, mangy and feral dogs, wild pigs and cattle all foraging for the same street detritus. Nearby there will be mothers and babies begging piteously. Once you have given to one you will be surrounded by a host of others. It is deeply disturbing and upsetting.

To our 20-day tour of Rajasthan beginning with the Keoladeo Ghana National Park, a wonderful bird park which was formerly a duck shooting reserve made for Maharaja Suraj Mahal in the 1850s. It was contrastingly peaceful and calm, even though, we were told, Lord Linlithgow had shot 2,000 ducks in one day there in 1938 while Viceroy of India! Our excellent cycle rickshaw wallah Mr Singh turned out to be very knowledgeable and pointed out 45 different species of birds including an eagle, plus the surprise of three jackals and a turtle. After the hustle and bustle of Agra and Delhi this was manna from heaven. The only downside was that we had to change hotels from a fly ridden hovel to a superior grade. Bollocking for tour operator.

To Ranthambhore National Park in search of tigers. We took two tours (morning and afternoon) and saw much game but, sadly, not a tiger. We were informed that we were very lucky to see a total of three leopards, until we learned that our guide had cheated a little by "finding" their regular haunt in a cave just outside the town. Because leopards are frightened of tigers they scavenge in the town at night. We stayed in a lovely hotel - but unfortunately the parents of an 18-year-old also thought it was a perfect venue for his birthday party resulting in a midnight disco that must have frightened the tigers!

Jaipur by bumpy roads, confronting head on traffic on dual carriageways, wandering cows and camel-drawn carts - the lot. Luckily Bobby - complete with loud horn which is the favoured extra of the Indian driver - steered us safely through. After a much needed haircut (three pounds including a head and back massage for Colin) we visited the City Palace which is still lived in by the Maharaja of Jaipur and his family. The previous incumbent died of a heart attack playing polo at Smith's Lawn, Windsor, in 1970 - an event Colin remembered.

Everything in Jaipur is pink as the result of the visit of the Prince of Wales in 1876 as the then Maharaja believed it to be a sign of welcome. Today residents are compelled by law to repaint their houses annually - although it looks more coral than pink. That evening we found an Italian restaurant on a nearby rooftop to our hotel. It lacked a licqor licence but got round this by serving beer in a teapot! Rather warm and unappealing, to be honest.

Next day we visited the Amber Fort, 11k outside Jaipur. We took an elephant ride up to the imposing edifice sited on a massive hill, resembling the Maharaja and Maharani of Ealing. After exploring it for two hours in 40 degrees of heat we thought we would see how the other half live by slinking off to the Polo Bar in the Rambagh Palace hotel, part of the Raj group, and set in 19 peaceful hectares where the Maharani Mother still resides in the grounds. Marvellous moustachioed and turbaned staff, charm itself, dating from another era served the Ealing Memsahib a gin and tonic while the Sahib relied on Kingfisher beer to slake his thirst. "It doesn't cost anything to look," we thought to ourselves. Well only 1500 rupees (21 pounds)!

By huge contrast we drove on to Pushkar, a bewitching Hindu pilgrim town noted for its religious mores and alcohol free ambience. (Whose idea was this - Ed). It boasts hundreds of temples - Colin is planning to visit every single one. Indiana Jones is in our wake tomorrow.